Issey Miyake Homme Plissé Tailored Pleats 2

The shoulder padding is the surprise. Heat-set pleated cloth gets the appearance of structure without any structure being present, which is much of the point of it, so a jacket that actually contains padding is a deliberate departure. It is thin, and it is doing something specific: a Mandarin collar has no lapel and no roll, so there is nothing at the front of the jacket to establish a line, and the entire read of the garment depends on the shoulder holding a clean horizontal. Padding is the only way to guarantee that. The rest is properly resolved tailoring grammar, with side pockets and inner pockets, the latter being a detail that pleated garments usually cannot support because an interior pocket bag is a second layer that has to survive the press without printing through. Tailored Pleats is an accurate name and the "2" marks it as a second working of the idea.

It accepts a piece of conventional construction in order to achieve something pleated cloth alone could not, and the Mandarin collar is the reason it needs to.

Homme Plissé is where Issey Miyake's pleating meets menswear tailoring, and this jacket is the furthest that meeting goes.

100% polyester, made in Japan, in black. Mandarin collar, thin shoulder padding, side pockets and inner pockets.

The thin padding holds the shoulder line; everything below it is soft. A Mandarin collar sits close at the neck and changes what can be worn under it, since there is no lapel to frame a shirt collar. Pleated cloth opens as it is worn.

The collarless neckline wants something plain and high beneath it, not a conventional shirt collar fighting for the same space. Black and formal, it is the piece in the line that goes to the most serious occasions.

The pleats are heat-set into the polyester and are permanent, so it washes without losing them. Wash at 30°C or below in a laundry net on a short cycle, or press gently by hand, and never tumble dry, iron, steam, or dry clean. Store rolled along the direction of the pleats rather than hung. Our fabric care guide covers polyester and technical cloth.

The Basics Jacket is the unpadded alternative, and the Compleat Trousers are the sharpest trouser to wear beneath it. Everything we carry from Issey Miyake is listed together.