Massimo Alba Canary Button-Up

A soft collar is a collar built without fusible interlining. On most shirts a layer of stiffened material is bonded to the collar to make it stand, hold a point, and survive a press, which is the right answer on a business shirt worn under a tie. It is the wrong answer on a linen shirt in summer, because the fused layer is the one part of the garment that will not soften, will not drape, and eventually bubbles away from the cloth after enough washing. Leave it out and the collar behaves like the rest of the shirt: it rolls rather than stands, it lies flat when it is open, and it softens at exactly the same rate as everything around it. The rounded hem is the second decision, and between them they describe a shirt drawn for heat rather than for an office.

Linen shirts are easy to find and good linen collars are not, because the collar is where a cheap linen shirt gives itself away within a season. This one does not have the part that fails.

One hundred percent linen, made in Italy. Soft collar, rounded hem, classic fit. Colour: Cocoa.

Classic fit, meaning it skims rather than holds. Linen has no give, so take the size that lets you reach forward rather than the one that looks best standing still. It will crease from the first hour and soften substantially across a season. The soft collar will not hold a point under a jacket the way a fused one does, which is the trade you are making and the reason to want it.

Untucked with the Kevin shorts or the Ionio2 in Ferro, collar open. Under the Catch2 jacket in white. With the Winch2 when it cools.

Wash cool and hang to dry. Linen improves with every wash, so wash it freely. Press damp if you want it crisp, and go gently at the collar, because there is no interlining in there to protect the cloth from the iron. Our linen care guidance covers the rest.

The Kos Collarless Pop-Over is the linen and cotton that pulls on over the head, the Noto2 Classic Shirt is the band collar, the Bowles Button-Up in Sand is the spread collar, and the Catch2 Jacket is the linen jacket. There is more on the house on the Massimo Alba designer page. Everything we carry from Massimo Alba is listed together.