Ann Demeulemeester Bregje Ruffled Dress

Volume in a garment is usually fixed by the pattern, which means you buy a silhouette and live with it. This dress puts the decision in the wearer's hands. The drawstrings let the same piece read as full and romantic or drawn in and severe, and both readings are genuinely available rather than one being the garment and the other a compromise. The balloon sleeve is the element that makes it work: it holds air regardless of how the body is adjusted, so tightening the dress does not flatten the whole line. Cotton is the right cloth for it, because it takes a gather and holds it rather than sliding out of shape as a silk would.

A dress that can be two things is worth more than two dresses that can each be one, and this house is unusual in making that argument without the garment looking like a compromise.

Ann Demeulemeester founded the label in 1985; Stefano Gallici has designed it since 2023. Adjustable fastenings treated as part of the drawing are a long-running house habit.

One hundred percent cotton, made in Italy, in black. Ruffled detailing, balloon sleeves, and drawstrings for an adjustable fit.

The drawstrings absorb a range of sizes, so this is more forgiving than a fitted dress of the same nominal size. Mini length. The sleeve is full regardless of adjustment, so allow room in a coat worn over it.

With the Danny Ankle Boots and bare legs, or over a slim trouser if the length concerns you. The dress is carrying the volume, so nothing over it should add more.

Cotton washes cool, but a gathered garment dries into whatever shape it is left in, so smooth the ruffles and hang it rather than laying it folded. Our care guidance covers cotton in more detail.

If this is the one, look also at the Stee Ruffled Drawstring Top and the Danny Ankle Boots. The rest of what we carry from the house is on the Ann Demeulemeester page.