Comme des Garçons Homme Plus Long Tulle Jacket

Tulle is a net. It is made by knotting or knitting fine yarns into an open hexagonal mesh, and its entire character comes from the fact that you can see through it, which is why it has lived for two centuries in veils, in tutus, and in the underskirts of things. Building a double-breasted coat out of it is a category error committed on purpose. A double-breasted front is the most opaque, most protective, most institutional arrangement in outerwear: two layers of cloth crossed over the chest, designed originally to keep weather out. Made in net, it keeps nothing out at all, and what remains is the shape of authority with none of its function. Layering the tulle doubly is what makes the jacket readable rather than ghostly: two meshes overlaid produce a denser field where they align and a paler one where they do not, so the coat has weight and depth without ever becoming solid. In white, that effect is at its most extreme. One hundred percent polyester, made in Japan.

This is the clearest single object we could point to if someone asked what this house does. It is a completely serious garment that undoes itself, and it is beautiful before any of that is explained.

Comme des Garçons Homme Plus has spent decades taking the most fixed forms in menswear and remaking them in materials that cannot perform their function.

One hundred percent polyester, in double-layered tulle. Double-breasted, long. Made in Japan. Color: White.

Tulle has body and almost no weight, so a long jacket in it stands away from the body and moves with the air rather than falling straight. It is transparent, which means what is worn under it is part of the garment and has to be chosen as such. Sized on the shoulder.

The layer underneath is the decision. The Homme Plus Wool Trousers and a plain dark top half will read through it as a solid core inside a pale shell, which is the version that makes the tulle do the most work. Nothing patterned underneath.

Tulle snags and a snag in a net does not close. Keep it away from anything with hooks, hang it with room around it rather than crushed between other things, and do not iron it: polyester tulle melts and flattens under heat, and neither is recoverable. Have it cleaned by someone told what it is. Our care guidance covers the rest.

The Homme Plus Ruffle Jacket is nylon gathered into ruffles, and the Homme Plus Pleated Blazer is polyester pleated throughout. Everything we carry from Comme des Garçons is listed together.