Issey Miyake Homme Plissé Monthly Color: July Zip-Up Hoodie

Thumbholes and layered sleeves both come straight out of technical sportswear, where they exist for plain reasons: a thumbhole keeps a sleeve from riding up and holds a cuff over the back of the hand, and layering the sleeve gives movement without bulk at the joint. Transplanting them into pleated polyester keeps the function and changes the register entirely, because the cloth has structure and a vertical line rather than the softness a hoodie normally trades on. The result is a zip hoodie that behaves like technical outerwear and looks like neither: too considered to read as athletic, too easy to read as formal. The layered sleeve is also the more interesting of the two details visually, since each layer catches light along its own pleating and the arm gains depth.

Two genuinely functional sportswear details, executed in a cloth that removes all the sportswear associations. It is a hood you can wear with grown-up clothes.

Homme Plissé regularly takes technical or casual garment logic and rebuilds it in Issey Miyake's pleated cloth, and the hoodie is where that is most visible.

100% polyester, made in Japan, in black. Pleated, zip front, with layered sleeves and thumbholes.

The thumbholes fix the cuff at the hand, which sets the sleeve length for you. Layered sleeves give room at the elbow. Pleated cloth opens as it is worn.

Because it does not read as athletic, it goes under a coat or over a shirt without looking out of place. Black and structured, it is closer to a light jacket than to a sweatshirt.

The pleats are heat-set into the polyester and are permanent, so it washes without losing them. Wash at 30°C or below in a laundry net on a short cycle, or press gently by hand, and never tumble dry, iron, steam, or dry clean. Store rolled along the direction of the pleats. Our fabric care guide covers polyester and technical cloth.

The Monthly Color July Shorts are its counterpart in the same colourway. The Monthly Colors March Zip-Up Sleeveless Vest is the sleeveless equivalent, and the Monthly Colors December hoodie is the same idea under a main-line name. Everything we carry from Issey Miyake is listed together.