Ksenia Schnaider Reworked Wide Jeans Dark Wash

These are made from jeans that already existed. That is the whole house in one garment: Ksenia Schnaider works by taking apart denim that has already been made, worn, and washed, and building something new out of the pieces, which is why a pair like this can have proportions that could not be cut from a roll of new cloth. A wide leg at this rise, made conventionally, means a great deal of fabric and a great deal of waste. Made this way it means the opposite. The high waist and the loose leg are the shape, and the raw edges are where the method shows: an edge that is left cut rather than turned tells you the garment was assembled rather than manufactured, and once you have seen it you cannot see the trouser any other way. The color is a wash rather than a dye, which is the second thing worth knowing. A wash is what an existing denim has been through, so no two pairs are identical, and the two washes we carry are two different starting points rather than two colorways of one cloth.

The colour

The darker of the two washes, which reads closer to a blue-black in low light and shows its indigo in daylight. A dark wash is the one that behaves most like a conventional jean: it holds a line, it reads as evening as readily as day, and it makes the raw edges the only pale thing on the garment, so the construction is what your eye finds first.

Almost every maker who talks about sustainability is talking about the fiber they bought. This house is talking about the garment somebody already owned, and the difference is visible in the seams rather than printed on a hangtag. We wanted the plainest, most wearable thing it makes, which is this trouser.

Reworking existing denim is not a line in this house's collection, it is the house's method, and the wide jean is where the method produces something a person can wear every day.

One hundred percent cotton, made in Ukraine. Upcycled denim, high-waisted, loose fitting, with raw edges. The record does not settle the leg shape: the garment is titled a wide jean and described as a flare. The copy above says loose and wide, and does not call it a flare.

High through the rise, so the waist decides the fit and the leg is generous below it. Denim has no recovery, so a pair that softens across a day comes back with a wash rather than springing back on the body. Raw edges soften and fray slightly and then stop. A reworked garment is assembled from cloth that has already been washed and worn, so the hand is broken in from the first wearing rather than after a season.

With the Denim Jacket with Denim Fur Collar, where the collar is the only soft thing in the outfit. With the Melange Knit Dress worn over the top. With the Platform Bag, which is hard where these are broken in.

These are a washed and reworked denim and not a raw one, so there is no argument for leaving them unwashed. Wash inside out and cool, and keep them out of a hot dryer, which is what pulls a raw edge further than it was meant to go. Our care guidance covers the rest.

The same trouser in a medium wash is one garment in its second wash, and the Wide Jeans with Rust Wash are a wide leg with side splits. Everything we carry from Ksenia Schnaider is listed together.