Label Under Construction Yoke Pockets Wide Jean

A jean in linen is a deliberate contradiction and it is worth being clear about which half wins. The architecture is denim’s: five pockets, a button fly, a yoke across the back. The cloth is linen’s, which means the trouser will crease across the lap and behind the knee within an hour of sitting down, will cool you in a way cotton denim cannot, and will soften into something closer to its owner every season rather than fading into a record of where they sat. The pockets are where the house’s method shows. A back pocket on an ordinary jean is a patch of cloth stitched onto a finished panel; here it is worked into the yoke seaming, so the pocket and the structure of the trouser are the same piece of construction rather than one applied to the other. The front pockets are deep. The leg is wide and straight rather than tapered, which is the cut linen wants, because linen has almost no elasticity and a narrow linen leg fights the body at the knee every time you take a step. Dark Grey, which on linen is a color with texture in it: the fiber takes dye unevenly by nature, so a dark linen is never a flat plane.

Why we selected it

The five-pocket trouser is the most familiar garment there is, which makes it the hardest one to say anything with. This house says it in the seaming, and it says it in a fiber nobody uses for the purpose. That is two decisions in a category where most makers make none.

Label Under Construction treats the seam as the visible part of a garment rather than the part to be hidden, and the back pockets on this trouser are the clearest demonstration of that in cut-and-sew.

Materials and construction

One hundred percent linen. Wide, relaxed, straight-leg cut. Structural seam back pockets and deep front pockets. Button fly. Color: Dark Grey. We do not hold a country of origin for this piece.

Fit notes

We do not hold measurements. Wide and straight through the leg, so it is chosen at the waist and the leg does what it does. Linen has almost no give, which means a linen trouser does not stretch to accommodate across a day the way a cotton one does; it relaxes at the seams instead and comes back with washing. It will crease. That is the fiber, it is the reason the cloth breathes the way it does, and a press while damp puts it back in a minute.

Styling

With the Over Shirt, which is the same fiber in the other half of an outfit, worn out rather than tucked. With the Crew Neck Arched Tee in Green Bottle, which is the one combination here where a color is doing something. With the Parabolic Zip Seam Tee if you want the seaming to be the theme.

Care

Wash gently and cool and dry away from direct heat. Press this trouser while it is still damp, which is the single instruction that matters for linen and the one most people skip: linen presses beautifully damp and stubbornly when dry. Store it folded rather than hung on a clip hanger, which marks linen at the waistband. Our care guidance covers the rest.

Related pieces

The Over Shirt is linen worn above the waist. The Parabolic Zip Seam Tee is cotton with a structural seam across the back shoulders, and the Crew Neck Arched Tee is cotton with a raw-cut hem. Everything we carry from Label Under Construction is listed together.