Lemaire High Waisted Curved Pant

Two finishing processes are doing the work here and they are worth separating. Garment dyeing means the trouser was constructed first and dyed afterwards, as a finished object rather than as flat cloth. Dye takes differently at a seam, where several layers of fabric meet, than it does across an open panel, so a garment-dyed piece comes out with subtle tonal variation built into its construction: the seams, the pockets, and the waistband sit fractionally deeper than the field. It is why garment-dyed clothing looks lived in before it is worn, and it cannot be faked by dyeing the cloth first. Snow washing is the second process, a tumbling treatment that lifts colour unevenly across the surface to leave a soft frosted mottle rather than a flat field. Together they produce this moss green: not a solid colour but a range of them, shifting across the leg. The cut carries it well. A high waist and a curved leg mean the trouser is shaped rather than straight, so the mottled surface follows a line as it moves instead of sitting still. Western pockets, which are the curved slash pockets set into the front of a western jean rather than the square-cornered pockets of a five-pocket.

Why we selected it

The colour, honestly. A garment-dyed and snow-washed heavy denim in moss green is a much harder thing to produce than a flat dyed one and it is a colour almost nobody makes. The curved leg is what stops it reading as a workwear trouser.

Lemaire uses finishing processes as colour decisions rather than as distressing, and this is a clear example.

Materials and construction

100% cotton in a heavy denim, garment-dyed and snow-washed. Made in Morocco, in moss green. High waist, curved leg, western pockets.

Fit notes

A high waist sits at or above the natural waist and changes the proportion of everything worn with it, so a shorter top is usually the partner. The curved leg is shaped rather than straight and follows the line of the leg. Heavy denim gives little at first. We do not hold measurements, and there is no Lemaire size chart on this site.

Styling

Moss green is a warm neutral in practice and goes with cream, brown, black, and denim more easily than its name suggests. The high waist wants something tucked or cropped above it; a long top defeats the cut entirely.

Care

A garment-dyed and washed denim has already had most of its colour movement taken out of it in finishing, but it will still lift with washing, so wash rarely, cold, and inside out. Dry away from direct sun, which fades a snow wash unevenly. Our fabric care guide has a section on denim.

Related pieces

The Twisted Belted Pant is the garment-dyed snow wash in a twisted cut, the Five Pocket Twisted Pant is the straight-leg version, and the Maxi Barrel Workwear Pant is the wide one. Everything we carry from Lemaire is listed together.