Lemaire Twisted Workwear Pants

This is the most interesting collision in the Twisted line, because workwear and the twist want opposite things. Work trousers are built entirely for function: straight seams because straight seams are strongest and simplest to repair, heavy cloth because it survives, roomy legs because people crouch in them. Everything about the archetype is justified by use. The twisted seam is justified by nothing at all. It makes the trouser harder to cut, harder to sew, and no better at any job, and it is there because of how it makes the cloth fall. Putting the two together produces a garment that is genuinely hard-wearing and quietly unserious about it, which is a more sophisticated position than either half alone. Heavy black denim is the right weight for it, because a substantial cloth is what makes a rotated seam visible: it holds the wrap all the way down the leg where a lighter fabric would soften out of it within a few inches. Made in Morocco.

Why we selected it

A heavy black denim workwear trouser is a thing worth owning on its own, and the twist means this one is not the same as everyone else’s. The cloth is the real substance of it.

Lemaire’s habit of taking a utilitarian garment and introducing one non-functional decision is at its clearest here.

Materials and construction

100% cotton in a heavy black denim, made in Morocco, in black. Workwear cut with a twisted seam detail.

Fit notes

A workwear cut, so roomier through the seat and thigh than a five-pocket. Heavy denim is stiff when new and softens substantially with wear, which on a twisted seam means the wrap becomes more pronounced over time rather than less. We do not hold measurements, and there is no Lemaire size chart on this site.

Styling

Heavy black denim takes more wear than a lighter weight, and black goes with more than an indigo does. The twist is a subtle detail in black, so this is the version to choose if you want the construction without the trouser announcing it.

Care

Wash rarely, cold, and inside out. Black denim greys with washing more than with wearing, and heavy denim in particular benefits from being worn in rather than washed in. Dry away from direct heat. Our fabric care guide has a section on denim, including raw and selvedge.

Related pieces

The Five Pocket Twisted Pant and the Twisted Belted Pant carry the same construction, and the Maxi Barrel Workwear Pant is the wide workwear cut. Everything we carry from Lemaire is listed together.