Rick Owens Arrowhead Gown

Two slits rather than one is the decision that makes this garment. A single slit is a reveal: it draws attention to one leg and makes the dress asymmetrical. Slits on both side seams do something completely different, because the dress effectively becomes two panels hanging front and back from the shoulders. It moves in two planes, it does not cling anywhere below the hip, and it is far easier to walk in than a conventional gown. It also stops being about the reveal, which is the point.

The rest is deliberately loose. A deep V at the front, cap sleeves rather than straps, and a silhouette that skims rather than fits. In a plain cotton jersey it is closer to a very long tee shirt than to evening wear, which is exactly why it works in a place where a formal gown would be absurd.

It is about as comfortable as a full-length dress gets, and it is the one that gets worn to things that are not events.

We wanted a long dress a customer could put on in July without a second thought, and cotton jersey is the only answer that is genuinely honest. Everything else in this length is a synthetic or a silk. It is also simply easy to put on, which full-length dresses very often are not, and it does not read as a compromise anywhere.

One hundred percent cotton, in a jersey. Made in Italy, in Black. Floor length, deep V neck, cap sleeves, thigh-high slits at both side seams.

Loose throughout, so this fits over a wide range and is not a dress to size up in. Cotton jersey stretches with wear and recovers with washing. The V is deep and cap sleeves cover the shoulder without supporting it, so the neckline is the fit to judge.

With a flat sandal in the heat, which is the way we would wear it. With a boot and a leather jacket for the harder version, which the double slit handles better than a single one would. It needs nothing at the neck.

Wash cool and dry flat; never hang a floor-length jersey wet, since the weight of the water will lengthen it. Reshape while damp. Our care guidance covers the general principles.

The SS26 Temple Gown is the formal answer to the same length, the SL Tommykite V the fluid one, and the Chalice Dress the summer one. There is more on the house on the Rick Owens designer page. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.