Rick Owens Double LS T – Hollywood

The Double construction is one of the few things in this house that a customer can understand entirely from the garment in hand. The jersey is doubled, and the hem and cuffs are left on the fold instead of being hemmed, which means there is no stitching, no turned edge, and no added weight at any of the openings. The fold is the finish. Because the cloth is folded rather than cut and joined, the fabric hangs from its own weight and produces a drape that a single layer at the same gauge cannot.

Doubling also changes the transparency. Each layer is semi-sheer on its own and the two together are denser than either but still not opaque, so the garment reads as a soft shadow rather than as a solid black. A single seam runs the length of the centre back, which is the house's mark on almost everything it knits.

Hollywood was the Spring/Summer 2025 collection, shown at the Palais de Tokyo with a cast that included Paris design students alongside the professional models. It is a useful thing to know about a plain black long-sleeved tee.

The Double is the construction we would choose if we could only carry one thing from this designer's jersey line, because it is the clearest demonstration that a plain tee can be a piece of engineering. The long-sleeved version is the one that gets more wear here; Santa Fe evenings are cold nine months a year and this is the layer that goes under everything. Below-hip length is also the correct length and very few people cut it.

The Double construction, doubled jersey with the openings left on the fold, is one of this house's own inventions and has been in the collections in different weights for years.

One hundred percent cotton, made in Italy, in black. Lightweight semi-sheer cotton jersey, doubled, with the hem and sleeves on the fold, a ribbed neck and cuffs, and a single seam running down the centre back. Below hip length.

Below the hip, so it covers more than a standard tee and is meant to. The doubled cloth adds weight without adding structure, so it falls close to the body rather than standing away, and the folded hem hangs rather than sitting flat. Semi-sheer means it will read as a layer even worn alone. Cotton jersey relaxes across a day and recovers with washing.

Under either leather outershirt, which is the combination the garment is really for. Alone with black trousers. Under the sleeveless turtleneck, with the cuffs showing.

Wash cool inside out and dry flat rather than hanging, because a doubled jersey carries enough weight to lengthen on a hanger. No hot dryer. Our care guidance covers the general ground.

For the short-sleeved version, the Double SS T in pale blue, thulian pink, and milk, and the SS26 Double Short Sleeve T-Shirt. Over it, the Outershirt in lamb leather. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.