Rick Owens F/W 25 Bolan Bootcut Trouser – Darkdust

The interesting thing here is the substitution. Bolan is a denim pattern: high rise, slim through the thigh, opening to a bootcut below the knee. Cut in rigid cotton it is a jean. Cut in a viscose and silk blend, as this is, it becomes something with no obvious category. It has the topstitched authority of a jean and the fall of a fluid trouser, and it moves in a way denim cannot.

Viscose supplies the weight and the drape, and the silk is what gives the surface its dry, low sheen rather than the flat matte a pure viscose would have. Together they make a cloth that catches light along the flare when you walk, which is the entire reason to cut a bootcut in it.

The hems are left raw. On a fluid cloth that is a more deliberate decision than it is on denim, because there is no expectation of fraying to trade on. It reads as unfinished on purpose, which is a position this house has held consistently for thirty years.

Darkdust is one of the house’s own colour names, a grey-brown that is neither, and it is more useful than black in a trouser this fluid because it shows the movement.

Why we selected it

We took this for the customer who wants the Owens line without the Owens weight. It is a dressed trouser that does not read as tailoring and does not read as denim, which is a genuinely awkward gap to fill and one we get asked about constantly. It also travels, which a wool trouser does not.

Materials and construction

Eighty-two percent viscose and eighteen percent silk. Made in Italy, in Darkdust. High rise, slim fit through the leg, bootcut below the knee, raw hems. From the Fall/Winter 2025 Concordians collection, named for Concordia sulla Secchia, the town near Modena where the house has produced for roughly two decades.

Fit notes

High rise and slim through the thigh, with the flare beginning below the knee. A viscose-silk blend has little recovery compared with a stretch denim, so it will not spring back if it is bought tight; buy it to fit. The raw hem means the length is the length, and it is worth checking against the shoe you intend to wear before shortening anything.

Styling

With a heel or a substantial boot, because the bootcut is drafted to sit over something. Under a plain knit or a fine shirt, with the rise visible. This is the trouser we would put with a silk top rather than with a sweatshirt.

Care

A viscose and silk blend wants hand washing in cool water or a careful dry clean, drying flat away from direct heat, and pressing on a low setting. Viscose loses strength when it is wet, so it should not be wrung or hung heavy. Our care guidance covers the general principles.

Related pieces

We would point to the F/W 25 Bolan Bootcut Trouser in Black Corduroy, which is the same pattern in an entirely different cloth, the SS26 Bolan Banana, and the Knee Bias Skirt in a related viscose-silk. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.