Rick Owens SS26 Fogpocket Soft Soft Blazer

The fog pocket is the detail worth buying this for, and it is easy to miss. A conventional breast pocket is a horizontal welt, decorative more than useful, and nothing heavier than a folded square goes into it. The fog pocket runs vertically instead, opening down the chest along the line of the body, and closes with a snap on the inside. That does two things. It becomes an actual pocket, deep enough to hold something and secure enough that you can walk with it. And because the opening follows a vertical line rather than cutting across one, it disappears into the front of the jacket instead of interrupting it.

The rest is quietly conventional in a way the house does not always bother with. It is cut below the hip on a single button, with a narrow lapel, softly padded shoulders, two side-seam pockets, five buttons at the cuff, and two vents at the back so it moves. It is fully lined, with two more buttoned pockets inside. Six pockets on a blazer is a working garment pretending to be a formal one.

In cotton rather than wool, it belongs to spring and it belongs outdoors.

This is the jacket for a customer who wants tailoring that is not costume and not corporate, and there is more demand for that here than for either extreme. Cotton is the reason it works in Santa Fe: a wool blazer is unwearable for five months of the year, and this one is not. We also took it because the pocket detail is genuinely useful rather than merely signature, which is rarer than it should be.

Fogpocket is one of the house's continuing tailoring lines, redrawn each season in different cloth, and this is the cotton one from the S/S 26 Temple collection.

One hundred percent cotton, in black. Below-the-hip length, single-button front, narrow lapel, softly padded shoulder. Two fog breast pockets with vertical openings and internal snap closures, two side-seam pockets, two internal buttoned pockets. Five-button cuffs. Dual back vents. Fully lined.

Longer than a standard blazer and cut to sit below the hip, which reads as elongating and also means it will not work as a short jacket over a long shirt. The shoulder is softly padded rather than structured, so it follows the wearer more than it corrects them. Cotton has less give and less recovery than wool, so it will crease across the back and at the elbow through a day and will want hanging rather than pressing. Two vents allow you to sit in it without the back riding.

Over a plain tee with a wide trouser, which is what the length is for. Over a shirt if the occasion wants one. It is black cotton, so it holds up next to almost anything, and it does not need a tie to justify itself.

Hang it on a shaped hanger, brush it, air it after wearing, and use a good cleaner only when it needs one rather than on a schedule. Cotton tailoring takes a crease more readily than wool, so a press by someone who knows what a lined jacket is matters more here than usual. Our care guidance covers the rest.

The same jacket in cloth with more memory is the Fogpocket Soft Soft Blazer in wool, and the F/W 25 Fogpocket Soft Blazer in virgin wool. The Giacca Soft Soft Blazer is the flannel one. The Heizer Mac Jacket is from the same S/S 26 collection. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.