Harris Wharf London

Harris Wharf London was launched in 2010 by Giulia and Aldo Acchiardi, a sister and brother working out of Angel, in London, and manufacturing in the family’s Turin factory, which has been in operation since 1928, where their grandparents first made ladies’ gloves. The name is English. The hands are Italian. That division explains most of what follows.

The house is best known for coats built without linings. Most tailoring depends on interfacing, canvas, and lining to hold a shape the cloth cannot hold alone. Harris Wharf goes the other way. It selects pressed and felted wools and wool jerseys dense enough to stand on their own, cuts them with raw edges, and leaves the inside as finished as the outside. The result weighs a fraction of a conventional coat and moves with the body rather than around it. It is also, for the same reason, a garment you can keep on indoors, which matters more in Santa Fe than it does in Milan.

Harris Wharf London at W Department

W Department has bought the line across SS25, AW25, FW25, and SS26, in both men’s and women’s, from $310 to $1,095. It is one of the few houses on our floor we buy in real depth: two-button and stand-up-collar blazers, a short loden in light pressed wool, a western jacket in off-white, a coach jacket, a moleskin shirt jacket in dark blue herringbone, pleated and flared trousers, a geometric dress with pockets, and a crinkle top. Nearly all of it is made in Italy in virgin wool.

The cloth merchants are worth naming. The houndstooth blazer and its matching jogging trouser are cut from Vitale Barberis; the Prince of Wales blazer is Loro Piana, 51 percent virgin wool to 49 percent cotton. Those are mill names you usually meet at four times the price, inside a fully canvassed jacket that requires a tailor and an occasion. Here they arrive unlined, in something you can put on over a shirt at eleven in the morning.

That is the argument for the line, and the reason it keeps coming back.


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