Harris Wharf London Stand Up Collar Blazer

Pressing is what makes an unlined jacket possible. The wool is compacted under heat and pressure until the surface closes and the cloth gains body, and a cloth with body of its own does not need a canvas behind it to hold a shoulder. Take the lining out and several things follow at once: the jacket weighs less, it breathes, it can be worn indoors for a whole day without becoming a thing you take off, and the inside of it has to be finished well enough to look at, because it will be seen every time the jacket comes off a chair. The collar here is cut to work two ways. Stood up, it closes the neck and the jacket reads as outerwear. Laid flat, it opens the chest and the jacket reads as tailoring. That is a real change in the character of the garment rather than a styling note. And then there is the color. A bright red jacket is not a neutral purchase and it is not trying to be. It is the garment that decides what the rest of the outfit is doing, and the reason to own one is that it removes every other decision.

Because we would rather sell one red jacket that somebody wears constantly than three safe ones they wear occasionally. The two-way collar is what makes it wearable often enough to justify the color.

Unlined, pressed wool is the construction Harris Wharf London is known for, and this is the plainest tailored expression of it.

One hundred percent virgin wool, pressed, made in Italy. Unlined. The collar can be worn standing or laid flat. Color: Lipstick.

We do not describe the button count, the pocket arrangement, or whether there is a vent.

Unlined tailoring sits closer to the body than lined tailoring, because there is no second layer taking up room, and it moves more freely for the same reason. Pressed wool has structure without stiffness, so expect the jacket to hold a shoulder line and still fold at the elbow. It layers over a shirt or a fine knit and is not built to go over a heavy sweater.

Black underneath and black below is the version that makes the jacket the only event. Navy softens it. Denim makes it casual without making it careless. Collar up outdoors, collar down inside, which is a genuine two-garment wardrobe from one purchase.

Dry clean. Pressed wool responds badly to home pressing, because the surface was set under conditions you cannot reproduce with an iron, and a bright dye will show a scorch immediately. Our general guidance on wool covers airing and storage.

The Women Stand Up Collar Blazer takes the same collar into a boxy cut in a Loro Piana virgin wool, with every edge left raw and a third button at the throat, and the Stand Up Collar Blazer Honeycomb takes it into a knitted cotton. The Western Jacket is the same unlined thinking in boiled wool, and the Flared Trousers are unlined virgin wool. Everything we carry from Harris Wharf London is listed together.