4S Designs PL Bar Blazer

Ninety-six percent viscose with four percent polyester is not a tailoring cloth in the traditional sense, and the blazer is built on that fact rather than around it. Wool holds a shape because it has crimp and memory; viscose has neither, and what it has instead is weight and fall. So a blazer cut from it cannot be structured and does not try to be. It is single-breasted with a two-button front, and it is cut relaxed through the body, which means the cloth hangs from the shoulder and finds its own line instead of being held to one. The small amount of polyester is doing the unglamorous work of stability, keeping a fluid cloth from moving on itself at the seams. Black, and black in viscose reads deeper than black in wool, because a smooth filament surface absorbs light rather than scattering it.

We wanted a blazer that could be put on the way a cardigan is put on, and structured tailoring cannot do that. This one can, and it still reads as a jacket rather than as a shirt with lapels.

The house cuts tailored shapes in fibers tailoring does not usually use, and this is the most conventional silhouette in that argument.

Ninety-six percent viscose and four percent polyester. Made in Italy. Single-breasted with a two-button closure, cut relaxed. Color: Black.

Sized 48 and 50 on the Italian jacket scale. Relaxed through the body, so it is not asking to be sized down, and the drape does the shaping that a close cut would otherwise have to. Viscose has almost no recovery, so it will settle across a day and return with hanging rather than with pressing.

With the H. Sartorial Pant for black on black in the same fiber, which works because the trouser is tapered and the jacket is not. Over the Knit BD Shirt Animal or the Rugby Shirt. With the 5 Pocket Denim Black when the point is to make it casual.

Viscose governs this jacket and viscose is at its weakest when wet, so this is a dry-clean garment. If it is pressed, press it on the reverse with a cloth. Our care guidance covers the rest.

The LS Shirt Blazer is the structured answer to the same job, in virgin wool, and the H. Sartorial Pant is the trouser cut on the same viscose logic. Everything we carry from 4S Designs is listed together.