4S Designs LS Shirt Blazer

Herringbone is a broken twill: the diagonal reverses at regular intervals so the cloth reads as a series of chevrons rather than as a single slope, and the effect of that is a surface with direction in it without a stripe or a check. In virgin wool it is one of the most durable and least fashionable cloths there is, which is exactly why it is worth putting a joke on. The buttons are mismatched, deliberately, and mismatched buttons on a serious tweed do something very specific: they tell you the garment knows what it is and is not taking itself entirely seriously, and they do it without changing a single line of the cut. Ninety-two percent virgin wool with eight percent nylon, the nylon there for tensile strength in a loose weave rather than for anything you would notice. Brown, and a brown herringbone is one of the few cloths that genuinely improves with age, because a broken twill hides wear in a way a flat weave cannot.

A good herringbone blazer is not hard to find and a good herringbone blazer with a sense of humor is. The mismatched buttons are a two-dollar decision that changes the entire garment, which is the kind of thing we look for.

This is the house at its most conventional in cut and its least conventional in finish, which is a fair description of how it works generally.

Ninety-two percent virgin wool and eight percent nylon, woven as a herringbone tweed. Made in Italy. Cut as a blazer, with mismatched buttons. Color: Brown tweed.

Sized 48, 50, 52, and 54 on the Italian jacket scale, which is the fullest run in this collection. Virgin wool has crimp and memory, so this holds its shape and returns to it after hanging, which is the difference between it and the viscose jackets in the same line. It will feel structured where they feel soft.

Over the Knit BD Shirt Western or the Long Sleeve Woven Polo. With the W Utility Pant, which is the brown tweed answer in a trouser, or with the 5 Pocket Denim Black for the plainer version. Under the Morning Robe Coat.

This is a dry-clean garment, as virgin wool tailoring almost always is. Brush it rather than washing it, hang it on a broad hanger and give it a day between wearings, and press through a cloth if at all. Our care guidance covers the rest.

The PL Bar Blazer is the soft-tailoring alternative, cut in viscose. Everything we carry from 4S Designs is listed together.