4S Designs H. Sartorial Pant

Sartorial is a description of intent rather than of construction, and on this trouser the intent is plain: it is cut on tailoring lines, tapered through the leg, in black. What it is not is a tailoring cloth. Ninety-six percent viscose with four percent polyamide is fluid and heavy in the hand, with no crimp and no memory, which means it will not hold a pressed crease the way a wool will. That is not a shortcoming, it is the whole point of the garment: a tailored trouser that hangs from the waist and moves with the leg is a different object from one that stands, and it is much easier to wear for a long day. The polyamide is there for tensile strength and stability, so that a soft cloth does not travel at the seams. Black, and black in viscose sits deeper than black in wool, because a smooth filament surface takes light in rather than throwing it back.

Why we selected it

The soft tailored trouser is the piece most people actually want and the hardest one to buy, because most attempts either lose the tailoring or lose the softness. This one keeps both.

This is the house’s tailoring proposition at its plainest: a conventional trouser shape in a fiber that has no business being tailored.

Materials and construction

Ninety-six percent viscose and four percent polyamide. Made in Italy. Tapered leg. Color: Black.

Fit notes

Sized 48, 50, and 54 on the Italian trouser scale. Tapered means it narrows toward the ankle, so it should be chosen at the waist and the seat. Viscose has almost no recovery, so it will relax at the knee across a day and come back with hanging rather than with pressing, and a crease put into it will not stay.

Styling

With the PL Bar Blazer, which is the same fiber in a jacket, or under the Long Sleeve Organza Shirt Blazer. With the Wide Camp Shirt, the Knit BD Shirt Animal, or the Rugby Shirt. It is the plainest black trouser in this line and it is meant to be.

Care

Viscose governs and it loses strength when wet, so keep these out of a machine and have them cleaned. Press on the reverse at low heat if at all, and do not expect a crease to hold. Our care guidance covers the rest.

Related pieces

The Triple Pleat Pant is the pleated version in the same fiber family, and the PL Bar Blazer is the jacket cut on the same viscose. Everything we carry from 4S Designs is listed together.