Rick Owens Cropped Outershirt

Organdy is worth understanding before you buy this, because it is why the garment looks the way it does. It is a plain weave, the simplest structure there is, made from very fine, tightly twisted combed cotton yarns at a low thread count, then given a finish that makes it permanently crisp. The result is a cotton that is simultaneously transparent and stiff, which is a rare combination. Most sheer cloth is limp. Organdy holds a shape while you can see through it.

Cut boxy and cropped to the waist, that stiffness becomes the entire silhouette. The shirt stands away from the body instead of falling against it, so the space between the garment and the wearer is part of the design and reads as clearly as the fabric does. The construction is otherwise conventional shirting: a classic collar, snap closures down the centre front, and the level shoulder seams the house puts on nearly everything. It is an ordinary shirt pattern in a cloth that refuses to behave like shirting.

Organdy also creases, sharply and visibly. That is inseparable from the finish that makes it crisp, and if you want it pristine it will need pressing. This is a garment with an opinion.

We wanted the outershirt pattern in something that was not leather, and this is the version that makes the strongest case for it. In organdy the boxy cut stops being a fit choice and becomes architecture, which is a lot of design for a shirt. It also asks to be seen in daylight. On a hanger it is a black shirt. On a body in the sun it is transparent and structural at once, and very little cloth manages both.

The outershirt is one of the house's own garment categories, sitting between shirting and outerwear, and this is the version cut in a woven rather than a hide.

One hundred percent cotton organdy, made in Italy, in black. Semi-sheer. Waist length with a boxy fit, a classic collar, centre front snap closures, and level shoulder seams.

Boxy and cropped, so it ends at the waist and does not narrow toward it. Organdy has no drape and no give, which means the fit is entirely a function of the pattern rather than of the cloth relaxing around you. Take the size that gives you the intended volume rather than the one that feels closest. It layers over a close base and will not close comfortably over anything with bulk. We do not hold measurements for it, and would rather you tried it on.

Open over the Basic Rib Tank or a cropped tee, which is the combination the crop is designed for. Snapped closed over high-waisted trousers. The transparency means what is underneath is a styling decision rather than an afterthought.

Cotton, so it can be washed, but the crispness in organdy is a finish and heat and hard washing dull it. Hand wash cool or use a gentle machine cycle in a bag, hang to dry away from direct heat, and press on a low iron if you want the crease back. Our care guidance covers the general ground.

For the same pattern in an entirely different cloth, the Cropped Outershirt in Dinge linen. For the full-length version, the Outershirt in lamb leather. Underneath it, the Basic Rib Tank. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.