Rick Owens Cut Off Mini

The name describes the method. The hem is raw, left as though the skirt had been cut from something longer and not finished, and everything above it is tailored properly: a structured waistband, a concealed zip fly of the sort you would find on a trouser, and pockets set into the side seams. That deliberate mismatch, finished construction with an unfinished edge, is one of the oldest positions this house holds, and it has been consistent about it since long before it became a common device.

The pockets are the detail worth seeing in person. They sit slightly proud of the hip rather than lying flat, which most pattern-cutters would treat as a fault to correct. Here it is left in, and it gives the skirt a small amount of volume exactly where a straight mini would otherwise be flat.

Bean is a warm mid-neutral with brown in it. On a wool skirt it does what black cannot, which is register as a colour in daylight while still going with everything.

A wool mini is a winter garment and a genuinely useful one, and this is the version with real tailoring in it rather than a jersey tube. We took the Bean because the black version of this idea exists everywhere and this does not.

One hundred percent virgin wool. Made in Italy, in Bean. Raw hem, tailored waistband, concealed zip fly, side pockets.

Fitted at the waist through a proper waistband, so it fits like a trouser rather than like a skirt with an elastic top. Pure wool with no stretch will not accommodate; buy the waist to fit. The raw hem is the design and the length should not be altered.

With opaque tights and a boot in the cold. With a heavy knit above, tucked or out. Bean against black, brown, or cream.

Dry clean rather than washing, and do not attempt to tidy the raw hem; the loose edge is the garment and overlocking it would destroy the idea. Wool wants airing between wearings. Our care guidance covers the general principles.

We would point to the Lido Mini Skirt, the F/W 25 Bolan Banana Mini Skirt, and the Cargobelas Trousers in the same virgin wool. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.