Rick Owens F/W 25 Bolan Banana Mini Skirt

This is what it looks like when a house moves an idea between garments. The curved zip belongs to the Bolan Banana jean, where it travels from centre back around the hip and down to the hem and opens the leg into a flare. On a mini skirt there is no leg to open, so the zip does something else entirely: it becomes a curved line drawn around the body, catching light where a flat seam would not, and it turns a simple high-waisted shape into a piece of drawing.

The cloth is one hundred percent wool, which is the right weight for a mini and the wrong one for most people’s expectations of one. Wool holds the shape at the waist, hangs cleanly rather than riding, and makes a short skirt a winter garment rather than a summer one. That is a considerably more useful thing to own.

From the Fall/Winter 2025 Concordians collection, named for the town near Modena where the house has produced for roughly two decades.

Why we selected it

We bought this because it puts the Bolan zip on a garment that gets worn far more often than the trousers do, and because a wool mini with a high waist is one of those things that quietly outlasts the reason it was bought. The zip is the reason it is not simply a black skirt.

Materials and construction

One hundred percent wool. Made in Italy, in Black. High waist, with a zip curving from the front around to the back. From the Fall/Winter 2025 Concordians collection.

Fit notes

High waisted, so the fit is at the natural waist rather than the hip, which is a different measurement from the one most people know. Wool with no elastane will not give; buy it to fit. A curved zip sits over the body rather than in a straight line, so it will follow your shape rather than imposing one.

Styling

With a heavy boot and opaque tights when it is cold, which is what a wool mini is for. With a long coat over it. Above it, a fine knit tucked or an oversized one left out; both work and the second is easier.

Care

Dry clean, and keep the zip closed when it is stored so the curve does not distort. Wool wants airing more than cleaning. Our care guidance covers the general principles.

Related pieces

We would point to the SS26 Bolan Banana, which uses the same zip, the Cut Off Mini, and the Lido Mini Skirt. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.