Rick Owens Funnel Neck Jacket

Almost every down jacket is designed around the problem of bulk, and this one is designed around the opposite decision: it puts all of the volume in one place and takes it out everywhere else. The body is cropped at the waist. The cuffs are ribbed and hidden inside the sleeve, so the wrist closes without any visible tightening. And then the neck rises into a funnel large enough that it dominates the silhouette, framing the head rather than covering it.

The effect is a garment that is shorter and cleaner than a down jacket usually is and considerably more dramatic at the top. The fill is ninety percent goose down and ten percent mallard feathers, a high down ratio, so the warmth is real rather than notional. The shell is a recycled nylon.

Then Acid, which is the colour name and an accurate one. It is a sharp yellow-green, it does not sit quietly, and it is the reason to buy this jacket rather than a black one.

We took this for the neck and for the colour, in that order. The funnel is the piece of design that makes it more than warm outerwear, and it holds up close, where most statement outerwear does not. The crop is the practical part: a short down jacket goes over tailoring and over a dress without the two lengths arguing, which a long one never manages.

The house's technical outerwear takes the same exaggerated collar lines as its knitwear and leather, and the funnel here is that idea at full size.

Shell one hundred percent recycled nylon. Fill ninety percent goose down, ten percent mallard feathers. Made in Italy. Colour: Acid. Cropped at the waist, hidden ribbed cuffs, and a large funnel neck.

Cropped at the waist, so the length is fixed and the proportion of what you wear below it does most of the work. Down at this fill has loft, so it stands away from the body and reads fuller than its measurements. The hidden rib cuffs seal at the wrist and will take a shirt sleeve underneath but not a bulky knit. The funnel neck sits high and wide and is not adjustable.

Over black or grey, with a high-waisted trouser or a long skirt, since the crop wants length below it. Nothing at the throat, because the funnel is already there. The colour is the outfit.

Store it loose rather than compressed; crushing down for a season is what costs it loft permanently. A down fill in a nylon shell wants a cleaner who launders down rather than a general dry cleaner. Our care guidance covers the rest.

The F/W 25 SL Flight Vest and the Turtle Coat are the down pieces beside it, and the S/S 26 Classic Biker Jacket is another funnel neck in a different material. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.