Rick Owens Giacca – Hollywood

Cupro is the material worth knowing here. It is a regenerated cellulose fibre spun from cotton linter, the short downy fibres left on the seed after ginning, so it starts as a cotton by-product and ends as something that behaves like silk: cool to the touch, fluid, breathable, and with a soft low sheen rather than a shine. In a jersey knit it drapes heavily and follows the body, which is why cupro turns up so often as a lining and so rarely as the garment itself.

Made into this it produces a wrap that ties rather than fastens, plunges at the front, and runs long in the sleeve. The four percent elastane gives the jersey recovery, so the tie holds its position instead of gradually slipping. It is the same Hollywood model that the house also cuts in lamb leather, and the difference between the two is instructive: identical idea, one soft and one structured.

It is more comfortable than it has any right to look, which is the combination we look for. Cupro also solves a specific problem in a dry climate, because it is cool and breathable in a way that a synthetic jersey is not. And it is one of the least demanding things the house makes, which makes it an unusually easy way in.

Ninety-six percent cupro, four percent elastane, made in Italy, in black. Wrap front with a plunging V neckline, satin ribbon tie at the waist, extra-long sleeves, in a soft jersey.

A wrap tied at the waist is adjustable by design, so the fit through the body is yours to set and the size question is shoulder and length. The sleeves are cut deliberately long. Cupro jersey with elastane has give and recovery, so it moves with the wearer and returns.

With a straight or wide trouser, and nothing structured over it, since the whole quality of the piece is that it falls. It works under a soft blazer if the jacket is unstructured enough not to fight it.

Cupro is washable but unforgiving of heat, which will shrink and dull it, so hand wash cool or use a gentle cycle in a bag, and dry flat away from any heat source. Do not wring it. Our care guidance covers the rest.

The Giacca In Pelle Hollywood is the same model in lamb leather. Alongside it, the Long Wrap and the F/W 25 Shroud. There is more on the house on the Rick Owens designer page. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.