Rick Owens SS26 A Line Bias Skirt

Cutting on the bias means laying the pattern at forty-five degrees to the weave rather than square to it. In a woven cloth the threads run at right angles and have almost no give along either; turn the pattern to the diagonal and the fabric suddenly stretches and recovers, because it is the geometry of the weave flexing rather than the fibre. That is why a bias skirt follows the body without being fitted to it, and why it swings when you turn.

It costs a great deal more to make. Bias uses considerably more cloth, it will not tolerate an inaccurate cut, and it has to be hung before hemming so the fabric can drop under its own weight. Almost nobody does it at scale any more.

Here it is done in cupro and silk with draped inserts front and back, so there are two separate things producing movement: the bias cut of the body, and panels engineered to fall in folds. The waistband is ribbed elastic, which is the pragmatic decision on the whole garment and the reason it can be pulled on. And the hems are left frayed rather than finished, which on a bias cut is a deliberate provocation, because bias edges are exactly the ones dressmaking convention insists on binding.

We buy bias when we find it made properly, which is not often. This skirt does the thing that only bias does and it does it in a cloth that shows the movement. The elastic waist is the unglamorous reason we took it over other candidates: it means a skirt with this much drama in it can actually be put on in the morning.

One hundred percent cupro and one hundred percent silk, in separate components. Made in Italy, in Black. A-line, cut on the bias, ribbed elastic waistband, draped inserts front and back, frayed raw-edge hems. From the Spring/Summer 2026 Temple collection.

The elastic waist means this fits a range rather than a size. Bias-cut cloth follows the body closely at the top of the skirt and releases below, so it reads as narrower at the hip and fuller at the hem than a straight cut of the same measurement. A bias hem hangs unevenly by design and will settle further in the first wearings.

With a flat sandal or a boot, and a plain top. A skirt doing this much on its own does not want a patterned anything above it. The frayed hem means it should not be worn with something precise; it wants a little roughness elsewhere.

Cupro and silk both want cool hand washing or a careful dry clean, drying flat away from heat, and a low press. A frayed hem is meant to fray; it is not damage, and it should not be trimmed or overlocked. Our care guidance covers the general principles.

We would point to the Knee Bias Skirt, the Calf Bias Skirt, the Drawstring Bias Trousers, and the SS26 Combo Slip Dress. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.