Tibi The Slip Dress

The problem with a slip dress is almost always that you can see through it, and there are only two usual answers. Line it, which kills the drape and the whole reason for the garment, or make it in something heavier, which does the same thing by another route. This one solves it in the weave. A twill has fewer interlacings than a plain weave, which sounds like it should make it more open and does the opposite: with fewer crossings getting in the way, the yarns can be packed more densely, so a twill can be woven tighter than a plain weave without becoming thicker. Acetate is the other half of it, a regenerated cellulosic that is smooth, fluid, and heavier in the hand than its weight suggests, which is why very little else drapes the way it does.

Put those together and you get the thing the house is actually claiming: a dress opaque enough to wear with nothing under it, and light enough to be worn under something else without adding bulk. That is why Tibi lists it among its Without Fail pieces, the term for what a wardrobe is built around as against what passes through it. The straps are thin and adjustable and there is a vent at the centre back so it walks rather than restricting the stride. There is nothing else on it, and there is not meant to be.

Plain garments are the hardest to buy well, because there is nowhere for a mistake to hide, and a slip dress is the plainest garment there is. This one is correct: the opacity, the drape, and the length are the only three things it has to get right and it gets all three. It is also the piece we most often suggest to someone who came in for something else.

One hundred percent acetate, in a lightweight twill. Made in China. Black. Thin adjustable straps and a vent at the centre back.

Cut to hang from the shoulder rather than to fit anywhere, with the adjustable straps setting the drop and therefore the length. Acetate has no stretch at all, so the size is decided at the body rather than at the straps. The drape does the shaping, which means it skims rather than follows, and the back vent means it does not shorten your stride.

Under the Artemis Beading Tank Dress, which is cut to be worn over something and is the reason to own both. Under the Cashmere Suiting Liam Blazer for daylight. Under the Sheer Wool Gauze Oversized Shirt worn open. Alone, with a flat shoe, which is the version it was drawn for.

Acetate is the fibre most easily ruined at home. It weakens when wet, it will not take heat, and acetone will dissolve it outright, which is worth knowing if nail polish remover lives anywhere near your wardrobe. Dry clean, and press cool through a cloth if at all. Our care guidance covers regenerated cellulosics like acetate.

The same acetate twill makes the Slip Cami and the Slip Skirt, which are the two halves of it. Layering With Tibi is the Library post that puts these together, and everything we currently hold from Tibi is listed together.