NemeN Rise Multipocket Parachute Pant – Vulcan Soil

Parachute cloth is a name for a behavior rather than for a fiber. What makes this one work is that it is 73 percent cotton, which is not what a technical trouser is usually cut from, finished to a high density and brushed to a peach skin so that the surface has a faint dry drag to it instead of the slick hand of pure nylon. The 27 percent nylon is doing the structural half of the job: it takes the abrasion, it holds the crease out of the leg, and it is why a trouser this soft does not go slack at the knee. NemeN dyes the cloth after the garment is made rather than before, which is the slower and more expensive order and the reason no two lengths of it read exactly alike, and cotton and nylon take dye by two different chemistries, so a single dip produces two tones of one color sitting inside the same weave. A water-repellent treatment goes on afterwards. The cut is a genuine cargo: zipped cargo pockets at the sides, zipped hand pockets, a flapped back pocket, and drawstrings at the ankle so the leg can be worn straight or gathered.

The colour

Vulcan Soil is NemeN's own name for it and the copy keeps the name as the house writes it. Cross-dyeing is what makes a color like this hard to describe: the cotton and the nylon in the weave take the same dip at different depths, so what reads as a single warm gray at arm's length resolves into two tones at close range.

Almost every technical trouser we are offered is built from a cloth that announces itself across a room. This one is mostly cotton, and it behaves like a trouser first and equipment second, which is the only version of this idea we have ever wanted to sell.

This cloth is the spine of NemeN's non-outerwear work, and the Rise is the garment it was developed around.

Seventy-three percent cotton and 27 percent nylon, high-density and peach-skin finished, cross-dyed in the garment with a water-repellent treatment applied afterwards. Multiple pockets: zipped cargo pockets at the side, zipped hand pockets, and a flapped back pocket. Drawstrings at the ankle. Made in Indonesia.

Cut full through the leg with the volume gathered at the ankle rather than tapered out of the pattern, so the drawstring is what decides whether it reads as a cargo or as a parachute pant. Cotton at nearly three quarters means it softens and drops slightly with wearing and comes back with washing. The cargo pockets carry weight low on the thigh, so load them evenly or the leg will hang crooked.

With the Ash Jumbo Pocket T-shirt in Grey, which is the tonal version. Under the Nover Quilted Liner. With the Joel Messenger Bag, which is cut from this exact cloth.

The nylon governs even at 27 percent, so wash cool and gently and keep this trouser out of a dryer and away from a hot iron. Heat and harsh detergent are also what strip a water-repellent finish, so a mild wash extends the treatment as well as the cloth. Our care guidance covers the rest.

The Rise Multipocket Parachute Pant in Ink Black is the same cross-dyed cloth arrived at by dyeing rather than by weaving black yarn, and the Pale Olive is a green with gray under it. Everything we carry from NemeN is listed together.