NemeN

NemeN was founded in Milan in 2012 by Leonardo Fasolo, who worked at Stone Island, C.P. Company, and the Massimo Osti Archive before starting his own line. The name is a palindrome, and Fasolo has described it as a two-way view: industrial production read against artisanal method, the past held against the future.

The work is technical clothing made the slow way. Monofilament nylons with polyurethane lamination, bonded three-layer shells, garment dyeing, acid dye, and hand-sprayed surface treatments that leave no two finishes exactly alike. The dye houses and mills that can do this are largely Italian, and the runs are small because the process will not go faster. nss magazine’s studio visit is the clearest account of how the pieces are actually built.

NemeN at W Department

W Department stocks twelve pieces, roughly $200 to $1,500. At the top is the 3L Sphere Shell Jacket, three-layer nylon made in Italy in a grey the label calls Shade Vapor, and the Nover Quilted Liner in nylon, which goes underneath it or works on its own. The Nor 3D Knitted Vest is a recycled polyester knit with cotton and nylon detailing.

The group we find most interesting is a single cloth used three ways. A 73 percent cotton, 27 percent nylon parachute weave runs through the Rise Multipocket Parachute Pant in ink black, pale olive, and vulcan soil, the Puf short in pale olive and vulcan soil, and the Joel Messenger Bag, so trouser, short, and bag all speak the same material language. Those are made in Indonesia. There is also the User Zipped Packable Overpant, and two Ash Jumbo Pocket T-shirts in compact Italian jersey, black and grey, each with the patch pocket cut in a cotton-nylon blend so it holds its shape against the softer body.

We carry NemeN because most technical clothing insists on being noticed and this does not. It is engineered to a level you find with your hands before your eyes, which is the only kind of performance wear that ages well.

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Continue Exploring

• All NemeN. Twelve pieces, shells through jersey.
• Outerwear. Coats, shells, and liners across the roster.
• Engineered Garments. New York utility clothing, drawn from workwear and military patterns.
• Shop W Department. Everything currently online, across the whole roster.
• Visit W Department. 54½ Lincoln Avenue on The Plaza, open daily, 11 to 5.

Shop NemeN