4S Designs Triple Pleat Pant

Pleats do two different jobs depending on the cloth they are cut in. In a wool flannel they are structure: they open at the hip, hold a fold, and give a trouser its architecture. In a soft cloth they are volume, and the fold does not stay put so much as it gives the leg somewhere to go. This trouser is sixty-five percent viscose, thirty percent polyamide, and five percent elastane, which is firmly the second kind. The pleats sit at the front and the leg tapers, so the shape is full at the top and closes toward the ankle, and the drape does the work between them. The polyamide is there for strength and resilience in a fluid cloth, and the elastane, at five percent, is there so the trouser recovers instead of bagging where it bends. Black.

Why we selected it

A pleated trouser that moves is much more useful than a pleated trouser that holds, and far fewer people make one. This is a soft-cloth version of a shape that is usually stiff.

The house cuts tailored trouser shapes in fluid cloth as a matter of course, and the pleats here are the point at which that decision becomes visible.

Materials and construction

Sixty-five percent viscose, thirty percent polyamide, and five percent elastane. Made in Italy. Front pleats, tapered leg. Color: Black.

Fit notes

Sized 50 and 52 on the Italian trouser scale. Pleated and tapered means full through the hip and closing to the ankle, so it is worth choosing for the waist rather than the thigh. The elastane gives it recovery, so it will not hold a bag at the knee, and the viscose means it will still relax across a day.

Styling

With the PL Bar Blazer, which is the same fiber in a jacket. Under the Long Sleeve Organza Shirt Blazer. With the AB Shirt or the Rugby Shirt when the trouser should be the plain half.

Care

Viscose at sixty-five percent governs, so keep these out of a machine and have them cleaned. Elastane will not take heat, so press on the reverse at low temperature if at all. Our care guidance covers the rest.

Related pieces

The H. Sartorial Pant is the plain tapered version of the same viscose argument, without the pleats, and the PL Bar Blazer is the jacket cut on it. Everything we carry from 4S Designs is listed together.