Rick Owens Camicia- Snap Collar Faun Shirt

Almost everything interesting about this shirt is a subtraction. The snaps are concealed and run all the way up to the collar, so the front is an unbroken panel of cotton with no buttons, no visible placket edge, and no hardware. The collar is flat rather than built up on a stand, which removes the small architectural moment that most shirts have at the neck. What is left is a shape in cloth, and the quality of the cotton and the accuracy of the cutting are the only things holding it up.

That is a harder shirt to make well than a detailed one, because there is nothing to distract from a badly set sleeve or a collar that does not sit. It is also, in practice, the shirt for a man who wants one Rick Owens piece that does not look like a Rick Owens piece from across a street.

Why we selected it

There is a customer who wants the cutting and the cloth and does not want to be looked at, and the men’s line does not always serve him. This does. We bought it as the plainest good shirt we could get from this house, and the concealed snap front is the only thing on it that would tell you where it came from, which is exactly why we wanted it.

Camicia is simply the Italian for shirt and marks the men’s shirting rather than a model, and this is the most restrained end of that range.

Materials and construction

One hundred percent cotton, made in Italy. Concealed snap closure running up to a flat collar.

Fit notes

A shirt with a concealed placket has more layers at the centre front than a conventional one, so it hangs slightly straighter down the opening and is less inclined to gape. The flat collar sits low and does not support a tie, which is not what this shirt is for. Cotton shirting relaxes modestly with washing and holds thereafter.

Styling

Tucked or untucked with black trousers. Under either leather outershirt, where the plain front and the flat collar are what let a leather layer sit cleanly over it. Open over a tee.

Care

Machine wash cool and hang to dry. Heat is what shortens the life of a cotton shirt, so keep it out of a hot dryer and press it damp. Our care guidance covers the general ground.

Related pieces

For the shirt pattern in organdy, the Cropped Outershirt. Over it, the F/W 25 Outershirt. Underneath it, the Basic SS T. Christopher’s report on the SS27 menswear show in Paris is in the Library. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.