Rick Owens F/W 25 Outershirt

Concordians is the most autobiographical thing this house has named a collection. Concordia sulla Secchia is a small industrial town in the Modena region, and it is where Rick Owens production has sat for more than two decades. The designer slept on a couch in the factory for the first stretch of it in order to learn an industrial schedule he had not grown up inside, and he still spends weeks at a time in an apartment above the production floor. A collection named for a factory town, by a designer who lives above the factory, is not a marketing gesture.

The garment itself is restrained to the point of being austere. Calf leather, cut on a shirt pattern, snap front, two patch pockets applied to the chest. Nothing else. Calf is firmer and finer-grained than lamb, so this holds its line where a lamb piece would fall, and it will crease rather than drape. Patch pockets are the plainest pocket there is, sewn onto the outside of the panel rather than cut into it, and using them on leather is a decision to leave the material alone and let it be the whole proposition.

This is the quiet one. It is also, for the same reason, the one that gets worn most.

We took this alongside the blistered Hollywood outershirt deliberately, because they answer two different questions and a customer usually knows within thirty seconds which one they are asking. The Hollywood piece is about surface. This one is about line. Calf holds a shoulder, and a leather shirt that holds its shoulder can go under a jacket or over almost anything without collapsing. We also liked buying from the Concordians collection specifically, because a house that names a season after its factory is telling you where its attention is, and that is the sort of thing we pay attention to.

The Rick Owens signature line is made in Concordia sulla Secchia, from knitting and cutting through to finishing, and the Fall/Winter 2025 collection took its name from the town.

One hundred percent calf leather, made in Italy, in black. Shirt pattern with a snap button front closure and two patch pockets at the chest.

Calf is a firmer hide than lamb and behaves accordingly: it stands rather than falls, and it holds the shape it was cut into instead of taking one from the wearer. Expect it to feel slightly structured at first and to soften at the elbow and across the back with wear, which is where a leather shirt breaks in. Layer it over a tee or a fine knit. It is not cut to close over bulk. We do not hold measurements for this piece and would rather you tried it or called us.

Over anything black. Over the viscose and silk tees, where the fluidity underneath makes the leather read as the structural element. Under a long coat in winter. It is one of the few leather pieces that does not fight tailoring.

No water, no direct heat, no plastic. A broad hanger and air between wearings does most of the work, and a leather specialist rather than a high street cleaner does the rest on the rare occasions it is needed. Calf marks less readily than lamb but scuffs show on a fine grain, so keep it away from abrasive surfaces and rough shoulder bags. We prefer to advise on conditioning in person rather than on a schedule. Our care guidance covers the general ground.

For the softer, more textural version of the same garment, the Outershirt in blistered lamb leather. For the shirt pattern without a hide, the Cropped Outershirt and, in cotton shirting, the Camicia snap collar shirt. Underneath it, the Basic SS T or the Level T. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.