Rick Owens F/W 25 Geth Jean – Black

A jean is a pattern before it is a fabric. Five pockets, a yoke at the back, a fly, felled seams, topstitched throughout: that arrangement was designed around a heavy cotton twill and has stayed with it for a hundred and fifty years. Cut the same pattern in a lightweight wool and everything about how the garment behaves changes while everything about how it looks stays put.

Wool is warmer at a lower weight, it breathes in a way cotton denim does not, it drapes instead of holding a crease at the knee, and it takes a black far deeper than an indigo-dyed cotton ever will. What you get is a trouser that photographs as a jean and wears like tailoring, which is a genuinely useful deception in the months when denim is either too cold or too stiff.

This is from the Fall/Winter 2025 collection, called Concordians after Concordia sulla Secchia, the town near Modena where the house has produced for roughly two decades. It was Owens's most autobiographical show, built around the factory itself, and a wool jean is a good emblem for it: a familiar object rebuilt by people who make things for a living.

Our customers ask for winter denim and there is no such thing, so we buy this instead. It solves an actual problem rather than an imagined one. It is also the piece that converts a customer who thinks they do not wear wool trousers, because it does not look like a wool trouser.

One hundred percent wool, in a lightweight cloth. Made in Italy, in Black. Five-pocket jean construction, straight leg, wide fit, low rise. From the Fall/Winter 2025 Concordians collection.

Wide and straight through the leg with a low rise, which is a different proportion from the tailored trousers in the line and reads longer on the body. Wool with no elastane relaxes over a day and recovers at rest; it will not stretch to fit. A lightweight wool will feel considerably lighter in the hand than a cotton jean of the same appearance.

With a boot, and with the hem breaking over it. Under a heavy coat this is the winter trouser that does not look like a winter trouser. With a knit rather than a sweatshirt, since the cloth is asking to be treated slightly better than denim.

Wool wants airing between wearings and cleaning as rarely as possible. Hang it full length, brush it down, and use a dry cleaner rather than a machine. A lightweight wool is more vulnerable to abrasion than a denim, so empty the pockets. Our care guidance covers the general principles.

We would point to the F/W 25 Geth Jean in Black Corduroy, the Geth Jeans in cotton, the SS26 Geth Cargo, and the F/W 25 Bolan Bootcut Trouser. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.