Rick Owens F/W 25 Minimal Sneak

Under-ankle is the specification that matters. This shoe stops below the ankle bone, lower than a standard low-top, which exposes more of the foot and makes the leg above it read longer. It is a small difference in height and a large one in proportion, and it is why this looks like a designed object rather than like a plain trainer.

The upper is cow leather, which in footwear is the practical, durable choice rather than the delicate one: it takes a knock, it creases rather than cracking, and it holds a pale colour better than a finer skin would. Milk is the house's off-white, and a pale leather sneaker is a considerable act of confidence, which the black stripe angled across the side keeps just the right side of precious.

The sole is the house's shark tooth, serrated along the edge so the profile reads as a row of angled teeth. On this shoe it is the only ornament there is.

We took the Minimal in both men's and women's because it is the shoe that answers the question we are asked most often about this house, which is what to buy first. It is recognisably Owens, it asks nothing of the wearer, and it is worn rather than admired. Buying it in both size runs was a single decision made twice, and we would rather say so than invent two reasons.

Upper in 100% cow leather. Insole in 100% calf leather. Sole in 100% rubber. Made in Italy. Under-ankle height, shark-tooth sole, angled contrast side stripe. Colour: Milk with black.

An under-ankle cut gives less support around the ankle than a standard low top and sits closer to the foot, so the fit through the instep and heel is what matters. Leather uppers of this weight ease slightly in the first weeks and then hold. Take your usual sneaker size.

With a cropped trouser, where the low cut is the point and the ankle is visible. With a wide trouser it disappears entirely except for the sole, which is also correct. Milk against black is the intended reading.

A pale leather is protected rather than cleaned. Wipe with a barely damp cloth, dry naturally and away from heat, and use trees or paper to keep the shape. We do not prescribe a conditioning interval, and we would rather look at a pair than guess. Our care guidance covers the general principles.

We would point to the F/W 25 Women's Minimal Sneak, the SS26 Minimal Sneaks, the Geobasket Sneakers, and the Mega Bumper Low Sneaks. Everything we currently hold from Rick Owens is listed together.